Sarawak Travel Guides & Itineraries

I remember getting off the plane in Kuching for the first time. You’re hit with heat and if you’re like me, mosquitos. Having arrived from KL I was unsure what to really expect from Malaysian Borneo. Three trips later and Sarawak is one of the places I recommend most to friends.

It isn’t a great destination if you are seeking shopping, night life or trendy bars and glamor (although Kuching has some of that). But it is a destination that will challenge you and change how you think about isolated wild spaces and the people who protect them.

What follows is my take on what you may want to prioritize when you visit. It’s not everything, but it’s what’s I think is worth the time once you’re there.

Where the Orangutans Actually Are!

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre is about 45 minutes outside Kuching. It is a must visit destination for anyone curious about orangutans. Semenggoh is a rehabilitation center for organutans who have been injured, orphaned, or kept as illegal pets.

Rangers feed the semi-wild orangutans that choose to return during specific windows. Check the timings but when i visited they had a morning and afternoon feeduing time. This does means that sightings aren’t guaranteed. The orangutans forage independently, so when there is plenty of fruit available in the forest they may not feel the need to come back for food.

I’ve visited twice and seen orangutans on both occasions. I have friends who visited four times and saw them three of those times.

Another unmissible experience is Batang Ai National Park. Getting there takes effort. It’s a few hours by road followed by a boat journey. The payoff? Keep your eyes on the trees. This is one of the places where you might spot fully wild orangutans in their natural habitat.

Lodge accommodations are basic by design. Most of them are run in partnership with local Iban communities who also serve as guides. I highly recommend staying in Batang Ali, but you’ll need at least three days to do it properly. Depending on where you choose to stay it could be almost a full day getting there, and another day getting out.

Caves, Rivers, and History

Gunung Mulu National Park is one of Sarawak’s most significant natural attractions. The Clearwater Cave system alone extends over 200 kilometers. It’s one of the longest cave networks on earth.

Deer Cave houses millions of bats and their nightly exodus creates a spectacle that really is worth timing your visit around. Watching a massive cloud of bats pirouette out at dusk is pretty cool.

I know I gained a greater understanding of why conservationists fight hard to protect this ecosystem. I remember the guano (bat poop) smell especially! But that poop supports the entire food web within the cave.

Getting to Mulu requires flying in. Why? There are no roads connecting it to the rest of Sarawak. But, this isolation is one of the main reasons the park is so well protected from the development pressures affecting other parts of Borneo.

Guides will often be from the local Berawan and Penan communities. Their tours and treks range from easy 2 hour walks all the wayn through to very demanding. The most demanding is the Pinnacles trek. It’s a steep climb through jagged limestone formations, and one I didn’t do, opting instead for a shorter, and frankly less terrifying, experience.

You do need time here as well. One day is doable, but you’ll need to decide in advance the one thing you really want to see or do. Bring worn in hiking shoes. Even on my “not challenging trek” the terrain can include ankle deep mud, ankle height vines covering the jungle paths and sharp limestone climbs.

Rivers, Longhouses, and the Iban

The Rejang River is Sarawak’s main river highway. It cuts through the landscape and is the main way to access the more isolated communities. The river journey into these communities isn’t curated for tourists. So don’t expect jet or cruise boats, but do expect a genuine experience of how goods and people travel in this part of the world.

Staying in an Iban longhouse along the Skrang or Batang Ai river is one you’ll never forget. True bucket list stuff!. You’re walking into a community and a way of living that has existed for generations. Spending time with the families that live here and watching them as they harvest, hunt, cook and raise kids is a massive privilege.

Even though we mainly focus on independent travel, this is not one of those experiences, and you will want to organise a stay through local tour operators. They have the relationships with the Iban. The accommodation is basic, and expect to be in communal sleeping areas.

I visited with a friend and we had a room to ourselves. Did they know I snore? When I woke up the next morning the room had gained 2 kids and a cat!

Expect a nervous first hour when you realise you don’t know the language and suddenly you’re alone in a very isolated place! However not long after you will find you are feeling like one of the locals.

It helps that you’ve mastered thumbs up, and are an expert at head knodding or shaking, plus your glass has been topped up constantly with local booze. The people are wonderful.

In the evening you’ll get lots of food, with traditional music and storytelling that you probably won’t understand.And in many ways the understanding doesn’t matter because you are living the experience.You’ll also get plastered on the local booze. I swear there is no way to refuse the 80 year old man who brewed it. And its fun. Hangover inducing, but fun!

The stay isn’t boutique or luxury, but it is real. And that distinction mattered to me more.

What do I need to know before I visit Sarawak?

Kuching is the most sensible base for exploring Sarawak. You can get flight connections to Mulu and road access to Semenggoh and Bako National Park.

Weather is hot and humid every day for 365 days.

The monsoon season is November to February. As well as the heavier rainfall it brings humidity you won’t believe. But there is a positive, because of all the rain it provides some relief from the mosquitos big enough to carry off small children.

Monsoon can also disrupt your river travel and the cave access. So between March and October is probably your best choice.

Accessibility varies:

• Semenggoh and Kuching is straightforward.
• Mulu and longhouse visits require planning.
• Research specific operators for longhouse stays well in advance.

What are the do-not-miss attractions in Sarawak?

1. Bako National Park: Here you’ll see proboscis monkeys, wild bearded pigs, walk through jungle trails, and relax on secluded beaches.
2. Gunung Mulu National Park: Explore the massive limestone caves, watch the bats fly swarm at sunset, and maybe hike to the sharp rock Pinnacles.
3. Semenggoh Wildlife Centre: Go to either a morning or afternoon feeding session and watch rescued orangutans return from the rainforest for a snack and then head back.
4. Niah National Park: This park has the famous archaeological cave systems. Full of local legend, history and the swiftlet nests. Miri is the closest town.
5. Sarawak Cultural Village: If you can’t visit a longhouse here you get to walk through more staged traditional houses that represent the local ethnic groups. You will also see cultural dance performances. I’m not usually a fan of visits to “people watch”, but this was different. It is a very respectful and informative visit, so I highly recommend it.
6. Kuching Waterfront: The place to go for a chilled evening stroll along the Sarawak River. Try the local street food or hawker markets. Cross the river on a Sampan, photograph the floating mosque, and then walk back across the river using the curved Darul Hana Bridge.
7. Borneo Cultures Museum: Modern museum with interactive galleries. You’ll get a good understanding of Kuching’s rich history as well as the indigenous heritage and peoples of Borneo.
8. Longhouses: Visit and stay overnight in a traditional longhouse. Learn about village life, local customs and get safely guided into deeply isolated rainforest.