Thailand Travel Planners Travel Guides & Itineraries

The moment you pass through Suvarnabhumi passport control, Thailand greets you with the scents of diesel and lemongrass.

Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River still flows past century-old shophouses in Bang Rak at a slow riverboat pace. Meanwhile, the MRT beneath Silom runs as smoothly as Tokyo’s transit, while Grab bikes dart between Mercedes cars above.

In Chiang Mai’s Old City, the morning alms procession along Ratchamanka Road is accompanied by temple bells and the soft crackle of charcoal heating up for khao soi; a bowl from the cart opposite Wat Chedi Luang is affordable yet bursting with flavors of turmeric, coconut, and a mysterious note you can’t quite place.

Down south on Ko Lipe, the Andaman Sea turns a glassy green by 9 AM, and the only road is a sandy trail where motorbikes deliver ice-cold coconuts at moderate prices.

The downside? April in Bangkok feels like breathing through a damp towel, with temperatures around 36°C (97°F), and December on the islands means higher European-style prices and ferry lines.

But the reward is that street-side som tam you enjoy while squatting on a plastic stool tastes better than any tasting menu you flew in for, and that’s why Thailand holds onto half the travelers who visit, keeping them from ever leaving.